Power Si vs Vitalize

the only thing I've read is that some if not most Si products aren't bioavailable or take extremely long to break down into something the plant can use.

which products are in that category I have no idea.
Not all products are created and made equal. I wouldn’t just cement this fast version as the only option ( my views) and If that’s so true than when I don’t apply silica my plants are def not as strong, I can def see impact dif when I go from low to higher dosage ( every penny counts ) . just because it’s not as fast doesn’t mean it doesn’t work.
 
so just summarizing some of that article that I linked the other day (it was one of the references used by the company that makes Dune):

foliar sprays of silicates (k sil, sodium sil) do provide disease resistance . however, they do not enhance growth or yield.

foliar sprays of (stabliized) silicic acid enhance root growth which leads to increased nutrient absorption. also, Foliar sprays with sSA increased growth, yield and quality parameters, especially when stress factors are involved.

and finally, foliar sprays of nano silicates provided slight protection from pathogens and slight root/plant growth
 
I contacted the manufacturer of PowerSi and explained the precipitation problem and sent lots of pics.

They were great to work with and sent a fresh liter at no charge! :punkrocker:

Unfortunately, the new bottle also precipitates when added to DISTILLED water. (n)

Not sure what to do now.

I’ve been using what’s left of the Mills Vitalize, which is almost 4 years old and doesn’t precipitate when added to plain tap water. PH is very low (3.5)
Maybe that’s why it stores so well???

Gotta bring it up to 5.5 for foliar application.
 
I contacted the manufacturer of PowerSi and explained the precipitation problem and sent lots of pics.

They were great to work with and sent a fresh liter at no charge! :punkrocker:

Unfortunately, the new bottle also precipitates when added to DISTILLED water. (n)

Not sure what to do now.

I’ve been using what’s left of the Mills Vitalize, which is almost 4 years old and doesn’t precipitate when added to plain tap water. PH is very low (3.5)
Maybe that’s why it stores so well???

Gotta bring it up to 5.5 for foliar application.
Have you tried warming the distilled water up to 100-120 degrees and then mixing your silica? That may help it solubilize and then you can let it cool for a bit before using it and it stay in solution. I have to do that when the silica gels into beads in my droppers and it does help.
 
I contacted the manufacturer of PowerSi and explained the precipitation problem and sent lots of pics.

They were great to work with and sent a fresh liter at no charge! :punkrocker:

Unfortunately, the new bottle also precipitates when added to DISTILLED water. (n)

Not sure what to do now.

I’ve been using what’s left of the Mills Vitalize, which is almost 4 years old and doesn’t precipitate when added to plain tap water. PH is very low (3.5)
Maybe that’s why it stores so well???

Gotta bring it up to 5.5 for foliar application.

I used to add enuff tap water to my RO get to about 75ppm. That seemed like just the right amount of ppm's to give the Si something to adhere to. (you could play with this in smaller amounts to see just low you can go with your ppms by adding the tapwater a little at a time)

Also I would add Si first and mix well then let it sit for a 1/2 to an hour. Then add the rest of your nutes.

I used this process when I was running Jack's and had zero precip after learning this method from ole Aquaman at the Farm.

Hope these two steps get ya the results you want.It worked well for me.
 


This comes from commercial growers, tissue analysis data, and how silica actually moves inside cannabis.


⭐SHORT ANSWER (Most Accurate):
You can run silica drenches until harvest safely.

Most growers stop 1–3 weeks before chop and reduce their application rate of the silica — not for safety, but for cost effective % or quality reasons .


⭐ WHY MANY GROWERS STOP SILICA BEFORE CHOP

It’s NOT because silica is harmful.

It’s because:

1. Silica slightly thickens cell walls — which can reduce terpene “ooze” near the end.

Late bloom is when the plant pushes oils to the surface.

Too much silica late can make buds:
  • Slightly firmer
  • Slightly less “squishy” or resinous
  • Terpenes may volatilize a bit less aggressive
Not all strains do this, but some are noticeably affected.


2. Silica in late bloom sometimes increases water uptake → slows fade.

Silica helps the plant stay turgid.

But late in bloom, we’re trying to let the plant gracefully senesce.

A strong silica feed late can:
  • Slow yellowing
  • Make leaves stay more rigid
  • Make drying take a bit longer


Some growers want that, some don’t.

3. If you’re flushing, silica raises EC slightly.
Silicates (especially potassium silicate) add to runoff EC.
So some growers stop it during their “final water-only period.”




⭐ WHY OTHER GROWERS USE SILICA TO THE END

There are good reasons too:

1. Disease protection stays active.

Silica hardens epidermal surfaces → PM resistance stays strong 💪


2. Trichome stems strengthen — less breakage during harvest. makes many plants self supportive


If you handle plants a lot, silica reduces trichome head snapping.



3. Potassium silicate boosts K in late bloom.
Cannabis is hungry for K in mid–late bloom.
Silicate sources add beneficial potassium.



4. Most forms of silica don’t actually store in the bud tissue.
Silica mostly deposits in leaves, stems, and roots — not the trichome oil.




⭐ SO WHAT’S THE ACTUAL CONSENSUS?👉

Organic silica (like RAW Silica, Agsil16H, monosilicic acids, etc.) is safe to use through the entire grow.



👉But most serious growers modify usage:
  • Monosilicic acid: use to the end
  • Potassium silicate (Agsil / RAW Silica): reduce or stop 1 week before chop
  • Heavy silica products (Armor Si, etc.): stop 2–3 weeks before chop


Reason: heavier silicates can slightly dull terp expression.


Stopping 7 days prior:
  • Lets terpenes open up
  • Lets fade happen naturally
  • Avoids any mineral “heaviness” in the dry/cure
  • Saves money


⭐ If you want the simplest rule:

Monosilicic acid → all the way to harvest
Potassium silicate → stop 1 week before
Heavy silica (Armor Si type) → stop 2–3 weeks before”
 
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